Brand New 2021 Nukeproof Mega Carbon 290 Custom Bike Build

This is my new bike and it has been some months in the making! Availability of parts is one thing but the build has also had to fit in around a busy work schedule, of course our loyal customers have had to come first.

But now it is fully built up, here is a look over of my brand new 2021 Nukeproof Mega enduro bike with details on which parts I have chosen and why along with some of my suspension set up.

So looks pretty cool right?! I am not really one for colour matching each component and bright anodised parts but I quite like the stealth look VS the silver components and spokes. Also the fact the Grey forks kind of match the frame was an unintended bonus as I actually thought the frame would be blue. More on the bike..

The frame is a full carbon Nukeproof Mega in size Large with 29” wheels and 160mm of rear suspension travel. I am 6’2 exactly and according to Nukeproof should actually fit slightly better onto the new XL size that the now do the Mega in. The geometry numbers of this frame however slightly better matched my old frame (an older Nukeproof Mega in large) so I was reluctant to massively upsize when I felt comfortable on the old frame. Yes this is a slight downsize in the grand scheme of things but the way bikes are getting bigger and bigger and most enduro tracks are still quite tight and technical on the whole, I decided a slightly smaller build would be more appropriate especially for the mostly steep and technical riding that I do.

Suspension forks… I have always been a fan of Rockshox Suspension for no particular reason other than I prefer it over Fox and most other brands I have used. The new ZEB for was the obvious choice for me and it is a bit cheaper than the Fox alternative also they look really cool.

This bike is designed to run with a 170mm fork upfront, however I decided to add 10mm and I run the ZEB in 180mm of travel. I have always been a Downhill rider and it pains me a little bit to not own a DH bike so bulking up my enduro bike seems to be the best alternative to me… Perhaps I should have gone for the Nukeproof Giga which has even more travel?? Either way I didn’t and now it is too late.

I am actually yet to take my own geometry readings to see how this longer fork messes with the bike’s numbers but I can confirm it does feel pretty good to ride.

Currently I run 83PSI in the fork with 2 volume spacers and 5 clicks of Low Speed Compression. The fork feels really supple but I have a feeling I will increase the air pressure once I have ridden it on some gnarlier tracks as I think it will ‘dive’ too much in steep turns etc.

While we are on the topic of suspension here is a bit about my rear shock… I run the Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate with the Megneg Aircan Upgrade. This shock has been taken from my old bike because I loved it so much so it is actually a year old now. I have serviced and fully rebuilt it for this bike and only slightly changed the settings from the previous bike.

I weigh 82KG and run the shock with 213PSI which runs at around 27% sag on this frame. I run the Megneg air can which allows you to further tune the negative spring of the shock, basically this means you can fine tune how the shock progresses through its travel to get it to feel nice and supple at the start of its movement, a little bit like a coil shock. I currently run 2 bands in the Megneg air can and I do not run any volume reduction spacers in the shock along with 4 clicks of low speed compression.

Drivetrain… The seemingly life long debate for any cyclist of which is better, SRAM or Shimano? Well I can’t really answer that but I can say I personally prefer SRAM as it looks better and in my opinion works better all be it this is up for debate in the long term.

I run a 12speed Eagle set up with a SRAM GX rear mech (which may change very soon to the wireless upgrade) an X01 Cassette and XX1 chain in black. EDIT - I can confirm I have now upgraded to the GX AXS mech and shifter! As you can see I have upgraded the jockey wheels to aluminium wheels along with a matchy matchy Silver Unite Components 32t front chainring. I also use a Unite Components chain device to keep weight down and secure the chain on bumpy trails.

While these bars don’t really match anything else on the bike, If you get Renthal handlebars you have to get them in the classic gold colour way! I am not a fan of carbon, believe it or not, so I choose Renthal 35mm clamp Fatbars with a 30mm rise and cut to 770mm. These are paired with a 50mm Renthal Apex stem to increase the reach that bit more.

The brakes were a slightly tougher decision between SRAM and Shimano. I really like both and power wise there is not really a lot in it. In the end I went for Shimano XTR brakes simply because I already had some matching Shimano XT rotors in 203mm. I have also become quite used the feel of Shimano brake levers which to me is the most important thing. I think that once you get used to how a brake works and feels it will perform better for you than something else even if on paper the other brakes are better… If that makes sense?!

I love these wheels! These are hand built DT Swiss 240 Hubs and DT EX471 DH Rims. I have laced the wheels with silver Sapim Race spokes because I have always had the best results with Sapim and I just think silver spokes look better! The rear is a 32h 3 cross while the front wheel is 28h. Again using a 3 cross pattern but 4 less spokes. Some say to save weight but this may also be because the 32h front hub was not available for ages!

As I previously said, I am not the biggest fan of carbon, so I prefer a tough aluminium rim that is easily replaceable should the worst happen. I run these with Michelin DH22 tires 24psi front and 27psi rear. They are really heavy and draggy but I love the compound, they seem to grip well in all conditions and they also have a really tough sidewall so no cuts or flats so far! They are of course set up tubeless.

Finally the dropper. Probably the least flashy bit of kit on the whole bike, a Brand X Ascend 200mm cable actuated dropper seat post. While relatively cheap and cheerful, I have always chosen the Brand X post. This is because you more than get your moneys worth. It is not an over engineered design like many others and very easily serviced. I have run this exact post for nearly 2 years and it is as good as the day I fitted it all be it with a few new cables along the way.

Thanks for taking the time to read the bike check. If there is anything else you would like to know feel free to drop us a message.

DIY Bike Cable Clamps & Routing | Quick Fix

This is a bit of a random bike fix but I have found myself in this situation a couple of times throughout my bike mechanic times so thought I would share this simple cable clamp & cable routing repair. Here we have a bike that had absolutely no gear or brake cable guides left in the frame, nor did I have any to replace them with… Perhaps they wobbled loose or were stolen by a previous owner etc. etc. Either way here was my quick fix to get the cables re routed neatly.

While what I have used here isn’t the most aesthetically pleasing fix it gives you the general idea and hopefully some inspiration to create your own cable guide clamps for your bike.

You will need for your cable clamps

• Large penny washer or similar

• Bolts to fit your frame recesses (m4-m5 usually)

• Plastic cable tidys

• Hammer

• Hacksaw

• File

• General workshop tools will be helpful no doubt

• Vice

Making Your Cable Clamps:

Start by cutting off the edges of your penny washer so it is more of a rectangular shape. Then tidy up the cut edges with a file, removing any burs.

Now pinch one rounded side of the washer in a vice and hammer until the edges are kinked. Rotate the washer and do the same to the other side. Again tidy up any sharp edges with a file to avoid any damage to your gear/ brake cables and bike frame.

Now moment of truth! Once you are happy with the shape of your cable guide, get your bolt and carefully thread it into the recessed hole in your bike frame. Align each of the cables appropriately underneath your new cable guide and tighten. Make sure you only pinch the bolt tight and do not crush your brake or gear cables.

Finally you may find it useful to clip on some cable tidys to keep the cables running where you want them. Finally once you are happy take it for a test spin to see if everything stays in place.

As I said earlier this instance was only a very quick fix so isn’t the best looking. With some thought you could use coloured washers of even spray paint to match your bike!

How To Service Cup and Cone Bike Hubs

Cup and cone bearing hubs are found on road bikes, hybrids and mountain bikes. It is more common on modern fairly basic stock wheels however, Shimano use a cup and cone system on all of their hubs.

A decent quality ball bearing or cup and cone hub will last a long time if serviced properly and regularly. Also you may find that as you ride your bike over time your hub needs some re-adjustment to keep your wheels running smoothly but without any annoying wobble!

In this video we show you how to; remove your axle, cone and bearings, properly service the hub and then correctly re adjust the hub tension afterwards.

You need for your cup and cone hub service:

- Grease

- Rag or tissue

- Brake Cleaner

- Cone Spanners

- Magnet

- a Small Pick

- Dish

Icetools make a pretty cool combi style cone spanner set, they aren't the best quality of spanner but good for the infrequent user: https://www.merlincycles.com/icetoolz-cone-spanner-set-44518.html?source=PHG

Trouble Shooting and Tips:

1. On a rear hub it is best practise to start non drive side. This is because you will find it difficult to get a spanner onto the cone on the hubs drive side, it tends to sit inside the free hub body.

2. Most often achieving the correct tension on the cones and bearings is the trickiest part. The idea is to tighten the cone just enough to stop any side to side movement, but also ensure minimal friction between the cone and loose ball bearings so your wheels turns freely. In the video we outline how this is done but bare in mind it does take some practise to get it right.

if you are having any difficulties or just need some further advice do not hesitate to contact us and we will be happy to help… Good Luck