Brand New 2021 Nukeproof Mega Carbon 290 Custom Bike Build

This is my new bike and it has been some months in the making! Availability of parts is one thing but the build has also had to fit in around a busy work schedule, of course our loyal customers have had to come first.

But now it is fully built up, here is a look over of my brand new 2021 Nukeproof Mega enduro bike with details on which parts I have chosen and why along with some of my suspension set up.

So looks pretty cool right?! I am not really one for colour matching each component and bright anodised parts but I quite like the stealth look VS the silver components and spokes. Also the fact the Grey forks kind of match the frame was an unintended bonus as I actually thought the frame would be blue. More on the bike..

The frame is a full carbon Nukeproof Mega in size Large with 29” wheels and 160mm of rear suspension travel. I am 6’2 exactly and according to Nukeproof should actually fit slightly better onto the new XL size that the now do the Mega in. The geometry numbers of this frame however slightly better matched my old frame (an older Nukeproof Mega in large) so I was reluctant to massively upsize when I felt comfortable on the old frame. Yes this is a slight downsize in the grand scheme of things but the way bikes are getting bigger and bigger and most enduro tracks are still quite tight and technical on the whole, I decided a slightly smaller build would be more appropriate especially for the mostly steep and technical riding that I do.

Suspension forks… I have always been a fan of Rockshox Suspension for no particular reason other than I prefer it over Fox and most other brands I have used. The new ZEB for was the obvious choice for me and it is a bit cheaper than the Fox alternative also they look really cool.

This bike is designed to run with a 170mm fork upfront, however I decided to add 10mm and I run the ZEB in 180mm of travel. I have always been a Downhill rider and it pains me a little bit to not own a DH bike so bulking up my enduro bike seems to be the best alternative to me… Perhaps I should have gone for the Nukeproof Giga which has even more travel?? Either way I didn’t and now it is too late.

I am actually yet to take my own geometry readings to see how this longer fork messes with the bike’s numbers but I can confirm it does feel pretty good to ride.

Currently I run 83PSI in the fork with 2 volume spacers and 5 clicks of Low Speed Compression. The fork feels really supple but I have a feeling I will increase the air pressure once I have ridden it on some gnarlier tracks as I think it will ‘dive’ too much in steep turns etc.

While we are on the topic of suspension here is a bit about my rear shock… I run the Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate with the Megneg Aircan Upgrade. This shock has been taken from my old bike because I loved it so much so it is actually a year old now. I have serviced and fully rebuilt it for this bike and only slightly changed the settings from the previous bike.

I weigh 82KG and run the shock with 213PSI which runs at around 27% sag on this frame. I run the Megneg air can which allows you to further tune the negative spring of the shock, basically this means you can fine tune how the shock progresses through its travel to get it to feel nice and supple at the start of its movement, a little bit like a coil shock. I currently run 2 bands in the Megneg air can and I do not run any volume reduction spacers in the shock along with 4 clicks of low speed compression.

Drivetrain… The seemingly life long debate for any cyclist of which is better, SRAM or Shimano? Well I can’t really answer that but I can say I personally prefer SRAM as it looks better and in my opinion works better all be it this is up for debate in the long term.

I run a 12speed Eagle set up with a SRAM GX rear mech (which may change very soon to the wireless upgrade) an X01 Cassette and XX1 chain in black. EDIT - I can confirm I have now upgraded to the GX AXS mech and shifter! As you can see I have upgraded the jockey wheels to aluminium wheels along with a matchy matchy Silver Unite Components 32t front chainring. I also use a Unite Components chain device to keep weight down and secure the chain on bumpy trails.

While these bars don’t really match anything else on the bike, If you get Renthal handlebars you have to get them in the classic gold colour way! I am not a fan of carbon, believe it or not, so I choose Renthal 35mm clamp Fatbars with a 30mm rise and cut to 770mm. These are paired with a 50mm Renthal Apex stem to increase the reach that bit more.

The brakes were a slightly tougher decision between SRAM and Shimano. I really like both and power wise there is not really a lot in it. In the end I went for Shimano XTR brakes simply because I already had some matching Shimano XT rotors in 203mm. I have also become quite used the feel of Shimano brake levers which to me is the most important thing. I think that once you get used to how a brake works and feels it will perform better for you than something else even if on paper the other brakes are better… If that makes sense?!

I love these wheels! These are hand built DT Swiss 240 Hubs and DT EX471 DH Rims. I have laced the wheels with silver Sapim Race spokes because I have always had the best results with Sapim and I just think silver spokes look better! The rear is a 32h 3 cross while the front wheel is 28h. Again using a 3 cross pattern but 4 less spokes. Some say to save weight but this may also be because the 32h front hub was not available for ages!

As I previously said, I am not the biggest fan of carbon, so I prefer a tough aluminium rim that is easily replaceable should the worst happen. I run these with Michelin DH22 tires 24psi front and 27psi rear. They are really heavy and draggy but I love the compound, they seem to grip well in all conditions and they also have a really tough sidewall so no cuts or flats so far! They are of course set up tubeless.

Finally the dropper. Probably the least flashy bit of kit on the whole bike, a Brand X Ascend 200mm cable actuated dropper seat post. While relatively cheap and cheerful, I have always chosen the Brand X post. This is because you more than get your moneys worth. It is not an over engineered design like many others and very easily serviced. I have run this exact post for nearly 2 years and it is as good as the day I fitted it all be it with a few new cables along the way.

Thanks for taking the time to read the bike check. If there is anything else you would like to know feel free to drop us a message.

How To Bleed a Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake

Shimano have made it fairly straight forward and simple when it comes to maintenance and bleeding of their disc brakes. Detailed here are the steps required to fully bleed a Shimano brake, which will be required after a hose replacement for example which we have also previously covered in this blog.

You will need for a Shimano brake bleed:

• Shimano Bleed Kit (supplied with syringe and reservoir pot)

• 7mm Spanner

• Allen Keys

• Brake Cleaner

• Bleed blocks (or something similar to keep the pistons back)

• Tissue

Bleeding Your Brake:

Firstly adjust your brake lever to so that it is horizontal and the bleed port bolt is upright. Also remove the pads incase of any spillage and replace with bleed blocks.

Remove the bleed port bolt on the lever with an allen key, be careful not to loose the rubber o ring off it. Then carefully thread in the Shimano Bleed Reservoir, the threads are plastic so can be easily damaged just be patient and tighten until it bites. Then fill the pot with a small amount of Shimano mineral oil and remove the bung (long stalk in the center). Now fill your syringe with mineral oil and push on your syringe hose to the bleed nipple of the calliper. It’s a good idea to stuff some tissue in around the bleed ports to catch any excess oil.

Once you are happy everything is set up, loosen the bleed nipple of the calliper with your spanner by a few turns. Carefully apply pressure to the syringe and observe oil filling the Shimano pot on the lever. The oil will bubble and may be discoloured, if this is the case keep repeating the process until the oil runs clear into the pot. If you need to refill the syringe, make sure you nip up the bleed nipple before removing.

Once your oil is running clear into the pot, tighten the bleed nipple, remove the syringe and clean up any excess oil at the calliper with brake cleaner and a rag. With the calliper end all secured, cycle the brake lever several times until there are no more air bubbles being produced in the pot. Once you are happy replace the bung and remove the pot again making sure you retain the o ring on the thread. Be fairly swift in replacing the lever bleed port bolt to ensure you don’t leak any oil.

Finally before you put any tools away, its a good idea to replace your pads and rear wheel and cycle the lever are few more times and check the brake is biting where you want it too and that its not spongey. If so then there is still air in the system.

If this is the case fit the pot onto the lever with some oil and again cycle the brake until more air bubbles come out. This should then solve it.

How To Wire In a Front Bottle Dynamo Light

I’ll start by saying I am no electrician! To be honest I often find the whole electronics thing a little bit daunting. But as a bike mechanic it is something Ive had to embrace over the years, what with the progression of electronic shifting etc.

We’ve had a recent refurbishment project of an old Pashley bike that had been left in the rain and the dynamo light, a real classic, was totally perished and corroded. So here’s a very simple guide as to how to fit and wire a new bottle dynamo front road bike light.

You Need For Your Dynamo Fitting:

• Bottle dynamo and compatible light (I bought it as a kit here’s what was included pictured above)

• Wire cutters

• Stanley Knife

• Allen keys or spanners for attachment

Installing your bottle dynamo and light

Firstly its a good idea to test the light works, in this case I bought it new so assumed it would but there’s no harm in testing!

Attach the positive wire from the light to the positive of the battery, in my case there is only one wire already wired to the lamp this is the positive.

Then touch the lamp to the negative terminal of the battery to complete the circuit and hope the bulb lights up! If there is a negative terminal or wire on the light, it’s the same process just using the wire.

Next it is time to fit the light, there is usually some sort of adaptor included with the light that you can get to fit with a few spacers and bolts. Bottle dynamos are designed to run on the tire or rim so will mount to the fork leg, The bike here has mounts dedicated to the dynamo however you can buy mounts that clamp to the fork, It is worth checking your bike before ordering the kit so you know what you’ll need.

Also note the bottle dynamo should be mounted as ‘straight’ as possible to the centre of the hub, this ensures the dynamo is working as efficiently as possible with minimal drag.

Now we have to attach wires! Heres a picture of the dynamo as you can see there is a clear positive terminal, this needs to attach to the positive from the light or the wire already wired into the lamp in my case.

Carefully route the cable down to the dynamo ensuring it is out of harms way and not obstructing any other components.

Now moment of truth… Provided you haven’t used any rubber spacers in the installation process, the circuit will be complete via the metal frame of the bike. Note the additional terminal on my dynamo is for a rear light.

If you have a negative terminal on your front light and dynamo then you will have to connect these up in a similar fashion as the positives in order to get a complete circuit.

While this is a very basic example we hope it inspires and at least gives you the confidence to give the dynamo light a go, it’s a great addition to any bike especially suiting vintage steel frames.